Trailering the J/92. Bill Miller shares his insights and experience with taking J/92 Millertime over the open road.

First, we tow with a 3/4 ton Suburban, 454 gasoline (though a friend has a diesel that works fine), 3:70 rear-end gears. The trailer is a good one -- Sailer's Trailer fom Jim Spurgeon in Missouri (he advertises in back of Sailing). I'm sure Triad is fine, though they seem a little light on the steel to me. The rig is 13'0" high with the mast loaded on top (this is legal). The keel rides on a plate, above the axles rather than down in a keel box. We are 10'0 wide, so wide load permits are required, but I've never been asked for one in fifteen years of towing big loads. Just look like an amateur, not a pro. I still get permits in states or areas I think might be high risk. They are available through a number of permit services nationally. Try the Yellow Pages; truckers have to use them all the time. We tow night and day, though wide loads are supposed to move only at night.

There are several tricks for the J/92:

1). Securing the mast: We built brackets for the bow pulpit, mast hole, and a T-shaped pier that sits on the stern cockpit floor and stern pulpit. It has rollers so you can rig or de-rig the mast on the trailer. We built quick connect plugs so the masthead instruments, windex light, and VHF are a snap to connnect. The rigged mast center of gravity is about a foot above the steaming light, and we built a bridle that attaches to the gooseneck, then goes just above the center of gravity to lift it. We put the tip forward, then orange flag the butt.

The mast is tied down with (from back to front) the backstay tackle, the mainsheet tackle, twings, and a spare piece of line at the bow. We shrink wrap the mast with the spreaders on, putting the skied, coiled halyards in a plastic garbage bag under the shrink wrap. Very sanitary.

The boom is secured inside in the stern quarter with the mainsail attached. Most of the deck lines can remain in place, speeding setup. We can load the boat, from water to drive-away in a little over an hour. Commisioning always takes about twice that long.

2). Tieing down the boat: We use two 10,000 lb. tow straps at the bow and stern cleats, then attach the ends to the trailer with four heavy duty ratcheting tie-downs. Twist them so they don't flap. Be sure to check tire pressures all around!

3). The hitch: use a frame type receiver (Class Three or Four) with an equalizing hitch. An equalizing hitch has draw bars that level the load and transmit it to the truck. You need to be weight forward, or the rig will sway. We much prefer electric brakes with a manual controller. If the rig does start swaying, you can hit the trailer brakes only and bring it right back into line. Surge brakes are the pits; impossible to back up, even empty.

I hope this is helpful. In summary:

1). Pop for a vehicle big enough for the job or you'll be sorry.

2). Buy a trailer as good as your boat.

3). Optimize for your conditions.

William V. Miller, MD
J/92 Millertime